I did another whirlwind trip through a country in Southeast Asia, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most enjoyable trips I’ve done in a long time.
There’s something unique about Vietnam that gives it an exceptional charm, where even motorcycle traffic can seem endearing and be worthy of nostalgia. The nature here reminds you of the power of time and the magnificence of the space around us. I’ve not had a single bad meal during my time here, traversing from north to south, whether it was at upscale establishments that take credit card or roadside stalls that proudly display their Michelin bib gourmand status. I will be returning to Vietnam with greatly heightened expectations, that’s for certain.
I began my journey in Hanoi, where weekend traffic jams had debilitated the entire section of the Old Quarter around the cathedral. I recall it rainily intermittently (which would become an annoying but understandable trend throughout the entire journey). I was lucky enough to arrive at train street right before the bells started ringing and the track cleared, getting to witness one of the wonders of Asia up close. The city felt oddly familiar, as I know my way around cities across East Asia, but still incredibly distinct. I’ve never seen a nation drape its national flag more, and I’ve never witnessed such a lively urban scene where storefront and sidewalk merge into one. Sitting down and eating pho bo tai nam and bun cha in quiet little eateries made me feel like Anthony Bourdain, and I never realised I liked Thai basil so much.
Halong Bay, Lan Ha Bay, and Cat Ba Island are skippable wonders. I’ve seen the karsts in Guilin and a smooth yet uneventful cruise between the jagged peaks can be incredible for a first time experience, but I found it rather drab. It didn’t help that it was pouring the entire day, with most of the ship also being filled with large families, rendering a small group of solo travellers and I comfortable pariahs. The company was great.
Ninh Binh continued the trend of drenched outdoor activities. I am proud to have climbed to the top of the dragon mountain at Hang Mua during a thunderstorm with no umbrella and only a plastic raincoat, although the views were nonexistent amidst the fog and sheets of water. Trang An is still worth it no matter what, and the rain contributed to a pleasant atmosphere, albeit rather unpleasant sensually with my clothes being soaked.
The Ha Giang loop is one of the best travel experiences I’ve ever had. Although it didn’t change my life like some online like to boast, it probably is the best thing you can do in this region of Southeast Asia. The feeling of being on a motorcycle, weaving between verdant mountains and careening alongside cliffs with hundred meter drops is indescribable. There’s scenery there reminiscent of everything from Yosemite to the azure rivers of the Berner Oberland. Spending time with a close group of travelling companions, exchanging stories and drinks, makes the loop truly exceptional. Make sure to do the loop with a small group, as the bigger the crowd, the less intimate the endeavor.
The center of Vietnam is often ignored and written off as a mediocre beach destination for old retirees and Russian expats. I found Da Nang to be charming enough, but it really shines as an excellent base to explore the historical treasures nestled nearby. Hue is incredible, and reading a whole book on modern Vietnamese history before my trip really paid off here. My Son is sadly a shadow of its former glory after bombings, but it’s still impressive and worth a visit if you wish to learn about the Champa Kingdom largely lost to international historical memory. Hoi An is a treat, from the cafes to the lanterns to the coconut boats. Go see it for yourself, and gorge on chicken rice.
The Mekong Delta and Ho Chi Minh City are nice, but the really noteworthy experience in the area is the Cu Chi Tunnels. Seriously, getting to see the traps and crawl through tunnels was incredibly enlightening as someone who loves Cold War history. The Delta is largely skippable, and I was unlucky enough to once again be stuck during a thunderstorm.
The Nho Que River straddles the border between Vietnam and China, a serpentine jewel.
Parts of the Ha Giang Loop remind me incredibly of Yosemite and the Half Dome.
Train Street in Hanoi is not overrated, and filled with life.
Trang An in Ninh Binh might be even prettier if it’s not raining.
The Forbidden City in Hue is a sight to behold, being rebuilt brick by brick.
Hoi An’s picturesque yellow buildings beg to be liberated from motorcycle traffic. They should make the entire old town pedestrian only.
It’s a straight shot down the boulevard from the Independence Palace in Saigon.
Imperial music is performed in Hue by a troupe of women musicians, a lovely tune.
Emperor Khai Dinh may have been an impotent French stooge, but his obsession with legacy at least left us an artistic gem, albeit very gaudy.
The sanctuaries at My Son reminded me slightly of Prambanan on Java.
Near here, I had the best chicken rice of my life in Hoi An.
The city hall of Ho Chi Minh City is beautiful even in the rain.
A Cham musician performs on his trumpet while drummers bang on in My Son.
The Ha Giang Loop and its rugged rolling hills never cease to amaze.
The Hmong people of the great highlands are amongst my favorite to study.
One of my favorite shots of a departing squadron of motorbikes winding its way around a mountain in Ha Giang.
I love the omnipresent flags of Hanoi.
Hoan Kiem Lake is touristy, but it’s home to some genuinely nice Chinese style architecture.
The Du Gia leg of the Ha Giang Loop had some of the prettiest karsts.
Halong Bay in the rain is surprisingly blue.