So it was just over a year ago that I made the decision to travel to South India this June, having only solo traveled within Europe. My friends, family, and colleagues were all concerned for my safety and well-being, but I ended up having an amazing time and would definitely return. Of course, I will likely do a different part (maybe the Golden Triangle together with Varanasi and Kolkata) but that's the amazing thing about countries like India; there is so much there that could last you a lifetime and then some.
The itinerary
I first stayed in Bangalore for three days. It is a great starter city in India, with some of the worst road traffic I have ever seen. Being the tech city of India, it has attracted a lot of migrants from across the country, putting stress on the limited infrastructure in the city. I was fortunate to be staying near a subway station; much of the city still relies on rickety buses that get caught up in the messy road traffic. It sort of reminds me of Leeds back in the UK. I had the best masala dosa (and one of the best food experiences) of my life here, and I only paid about £2 for it! Next stop is Mysore, which is like the York of India with nods to the royal past, a crowded shopping precinct, the plentiful tourists, and even a renowned confectionery industry (you need to try Mysore Pak!). To escape the crowds, I then booked a stay high up in the Nilgiris in Ooty. We will call this Skipton; pleasant enough respite spot (that's what it was intended as by the British Raj) with the comprehensive botanical garden, but the highlight was the getting there and away. Negotiating up the Western Ghats by a lively non-AC bus, then back down by the Toy Train afforded me some of the most amazing views (sticking to the Yorkshire comparison, the railway even had its own 'Ribblehead Viaduct' moment).
Another dodgy train ride later was Fort Kochi (I could call it Scarborough, but that may do it a disservice!) with the remnants of its colonial interactions with the Portuguese; there was lots of open support for the Portuguese and Brazilian team at the World Cup. I think it was my favourite spot in terms of just wandering about and capturing moments in the tight streets of the fort. I finish my trip in Mumbai; somehow, Bangalore could not even prepare me for the sheer pandemonium of Mumbai's suburban railway, with passengers suspending themselves out of permanently open doors, catching the wind before propelling themselves out at the next stop. However, this was overall my favorite city (in terms of urban intensity, I think we have to look out of Yorkshire and towards NYC for a comparison), and I wish I could have spent more time here.
The weather
I was slightly worried that it being the monsoon season would really disrupt my plans (it was probably why my hotels and flights were pretty cheap to begin with), but it all turned out fine in the end. Of course, do bring an umbrella for the afternoon/evening showers (they could get incredibly heavy). It didn't rain at all during my stay in Mumbai, so it was oppressively hot and humid. Even my glasses steamed up as I left the hotel! Ooty was very chill in temperatures (it was much cooler here than the heatwave back in the UK)
What to watch out for
I will just add that I'm a man in my early 20s of African heritage, so I may have not experienced the full extent of it, but one really needs to build resilience against the harassment and touts in all places. People trying to get you in their taxi, grabbing you to lead you to their market. The best thing to do is go about the day with not a bother. Don't engage, don't look, don't smile, don't shout, don't react. If you want something, you want something. Don't let others influence you into making a decision you may later regret. Be a 'Mr Bean' in the situation. Having said that, the majority of people I encountered were absolutely lovely, asking me about my travels and giving me tips on the eating habits and where to go next. A lovely family even shared me some food on the toy train, a memory I will cherish forever.
So yes, a great big trip filled with no regrets!