I haven’t travelled in Southeast Asia for many years, and Indonesia happened to be high on my list whilst also being a good destination for summer, so it’s the destination I picked. I did not expect to go through so much.
The country is wonderful. I have the fortune of having local friends who prepared me plenty before embarking on this endeavour. Locals and tour companies are all incredibly accommodating and willing to deal with you as a friend and a guest. The food is incredible, and I really ought to have eaten more of it. It’s one of my main regrets of the trip, but as you’ll see later, it was slightly out of my control.
I would not recommend my itinerary for someone who is not physically fit or willing to wake up at 1am successively to do sunrise activities, or someone who is unwilling to spend hours upon hours on rugged terrain and poor roads to get anywhere. This trip is heaven for the outdoorsman and the types of people that like to get shirtless in waterfalls. It’s also great for those who love history and culture. However, as with any travel destination, it’s always amendable to anyone’s tastes and liking. Just don’t expect some places to be walks in the park.
I went from Jakarta, where I spent time with some friends, to Yogyakarta by overnight train, where I planned to arrive and immediately conduct a sunrise tour of Borobudur and Prambanan. The train is really nice and comfortable despite being bumpy, and 6 hours passed by quickly. However, I just could not fall asleep, which made the subsequent journey so much more tiring. Borobudur and Prambanan are genuine wonders of the world and so immaculate it’s insane. Seeing the stupas and carvings up close as someone who has always studied southeast Asian art and the history of Java was so gratifying. It was definitely a highlight of the journey.
I proceeded to get a gastrointestinal infection so bad it left me bedridden for 2 days completely and a 40 degree Celsius fever that lasted continuously for several more. I literally refused to compromise on my itinerary but it made the following leg, all outdoor activities, so much more difficult. I made it to Tumpak Sewu, the most dramatic waterfalls I’d ever seen, after a 3am pickup and a 4 hour drive followed by a 600 step descent via metal and bamboo ladders. I made it to Mount Bromo the next day after a 1am pickup. By this point my sickness was recovering but I felt so incredibly drained I had to skip Ijen due to fear of the sulfur fumes worsening my bronchitis. Did I mention I also contracted bronchitis? I’m still stuck with this cough. It was all worth it, but I would’ve liked to do these sights under better conditions of health.
Bali was wonderful. You really need to have a good itinerary or else it just feels like a big village filled with yoga retreats and beach clubs. I zip lined through rice terraces, visited a dozen temples of varying sizes, and spent time at a nice coffee plantation. Nusa Penida, despite its nonexistent roads and long traffic jams, provided the best vistas of the region. It was nice getting to be able to eat real food after a week of white rice and isotonic drinks. I did get hit by a motorcycle while trying to cross the street once.
A main goal of my trip was to see Komodo Dragons and to visit Flores. I didn’t spend long but I enjoyed it thoroughly. I did the full hike up Padar Island and snorkelled alongside turtles and massive manta rays. Saw plenty of Komodo Dragons too. It might’ve been my favorite part of the trip, but that might just be because I didn’t feel sick.
Indonesia is lovely. I love this country and how ferocious it is. I need to warn everyone to be extremely careful when eating and drinking and to not push yourself with strain when planning your trip. I’m almost certain my sickness was a result of my fatigue from not sleeping an entire night during the trip to Yogyakarta alongside bad food.