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Photo 1 - Seljalandsfoss
Photo 2 - Gullfoss
Photo 3 - Reynisfjara Beach
Photo 4,5 - Sólheimajökull
Photo 6 - Þingvellir National Park
Photo 7 - Brúarárfoss
Photo 8 - Hallgrímskirkja
Photo 9 - view from a platform on the road to Reykjavik
We had a short two-day trip to Iceland with my wife. We originally planned to book a guided tour for our first day, but we were afraid the schedule would be so tight that we wouldn't be able to spend as much time as we wanted at each stop. So we rented a car and put together our own route. It was the best decision we could make. For the second day we did book a guided tour, this time through GetYourGuide.
Day 1: self-drive around the Golden Circle
It was a long day, but worth every minute, even though it started badly.
Our flight had been delayed by almost two hours, so we'd had only about 5 hours of sleep. We were supposed to be picked up by the rental company's shuttle at 8:30, but it never came. We were having trouble making and receiving calls, so we never connected with the driver. We ended up taking a city bus to the rental office ourselves, which delayed the whole trip by almost an hour.
There was another surprise at the office. I had booked a manual, but a Kia automatic was waiting for us. I'd never driven an automatic and was a bit nervous, especially after I mistakenly hit the brake almost to the floor at the first roundabout. Luckily there were no more incidents after that, and the car turned out to be very comfortable to drive.
The sky was overcast, but at least it was dry when we set off.
Búrfellsgjá lava canyon. Our first stop was on the southern edge of Reykjavík. We parked at a free gravel lot on the edge of the Heiðmörk reserve (drive slowly on the gravel road, a small car doesn't love it). From the lot you go down a set of wooden steps onto the flat, green floor of an old lava channel. Follow it straight ahead for about 2.5 km, then take a short gravelly climb to the rim of a volcanic crater. It's quiet and feels far from the tourist trail, and a great way to start the day.
Selfoss food hall. We took the wide, easy Route 1 over the Hellisheiði pass instead of the winding mountain road.
On the way we stopped at a supermarket, where I saw something I'd never come across before: to buy anything that needs to stay cold, you literally walk into a walk-in cold room. I have no idea if any other country does it this way.
In Selfoss we had lunch at Mathöll, a food hall in an old brick dairy building. You order at whichever stall you like and eat at shared tables. We both had burgers. I loved mine, but my wife wasn't impressed.
Kerið crater. Next was Kerið, a volcanic crater with a small lake at the bottom. There's a gravel car park right off Route 35 and a small entrance fee (card only). A path runs around the rim, and if you head slightly right there are wide wooden stairs down to the water.
Þingvellir National Park. This was the highlight, even though the weather turned on us. We parked at P2 and walked along the boardwalks into the Almannagjá gorge, the rift between the North American and Eurasian plates. At the T-junction we turned right first and, after a couple of minutes, reached Öxarárfoss waterfall. Then we went back and continued down the gorge. This is exactly when the rain started, with a proper downpour and strong wind. We were still absolutely delighted though.
Geysir. The rain stopped soon after we left the park. You'll smell Geysir before you see it: the steam drifting over the car park carries a distinct sulphur scent, like rotten eggs. Cross the road, go through a wooden gate and follow the gravel path for about 3 minutes to Strokkur, which erupts every 5-10 minutes. You can just stand there and watch one blast after another.
Gullfoss. Just a short drive away, we parked in the free upper lot and walked past the visitor center onto a railed boardwalk. We went all the way down to the viewing terraces over the canyon, and the power of the water there is hard to describe.
Brúárfoss. To finish, we headed toward Reykholt and then west on Route 37 to Brúárfoss, the "hidden" waterfall. From the car park, a flat, well-kept path takes you to a wooden bridge over the river. The water is an unreal, almost neon shade of blue, and the sun finally came out while we were standing there, which made the colour even more surreal.
The drive back. On the way to Reykjavík we pulled into a random roadside car park and stumbled onto an absolutely fantastic viewing platform, just before sunset. After a day of clouds and rain, we got to see Iceland in a completely different, sunny light.
We got back to our hotel after 11 pm. It was a very long day, but with a good order of stops it's doable, and having our own car meant we could stay as long as we wanted everywhere.
Day 2: guided tour and the Sólheimajökull glacier
The weather was beautiful, a complete contrast to the day before. The main event was a hike on Sólheimajökull. Our guide was also our driver, and right at the start he told us that, because of the heavy rain in the previous days, the planned route onto the glacier was closed and we'd have to take a different, much longer one.
He turned out to be a very funny guy with a huge amount of knowledge. He told us about Iceland's history, culture and geography, and about the geological processes that shaped the landscape. One fact that stuck with me: over 90% of Icelandic households are heated with geothermal energy (almost 100% in Reykjavík), and the Hellisheiði power plant is a key part of that system, sending hot water through pipelines straight to the capital.
Eventually we reached the car park where the hike begins. Everyone got a helmet, crampons and an ice axe, though the guide admitted the axes are more of a gadget for Facebook photos. The path first led through green, moss-covered volcanic rock. When we reached the edge of the glacier, the view was incredible. We put on our gear and walked out onto the ice, and everyone could drink straight from the glacier, the purest water on Earth. Our guide also told us that less than 30 years ago the glacier's snout was almost right next to the car park, which shows how fast it's retreating.
After that we visited a black sand beach (Reynisfjara Beach) and the last stops were two waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Simply breathtaking.
Back in Reykjavík we had just under two hours to see a bit of the old town and buy souvenirs. On the flight home I slept maybe an hour, and we still had a 1.5-hour drive from the airport to our house. We got back exhausted but happy. We'd love to return one day with our kids, maybe when they're a bit older.
A few tips:
Watch your speed. Speed cameras are common, and the fines are astronomical. Use cruise control and stick to the limits (usually 90 km/h on paved rural roads, 80 on gravel, 50 or less in towns). If you're in a rental car, the fine will reach you through the rental company.
Don't buy bottled water. Icelandic tap water is excellent and clean so there's no reason to pay for bottles. Bring a reusable one and refill it everywhere. (The hot tap water can smell of sulphur because it's geothermal, but the cold water is fine.)
Pack for all weather. In a single day we had overcast skies, a downpour with strong wind, and bright sunshine. Waterproof layers are a must, and it's worth having a change of dry clothes in the car
You don’t need cash.
Card payment works nearly everywhere, even at small attractions like Kerið
Happy to answer any questions!