I just returned from a wonderful 8-day trip to Bhutan. I absolutely loved the country, its people, and its extraordinary landscapes. Having visited India and Nepal numerous times in the past and been fascinated by the Himalayas and their culture, Bhutan was the next logical step. I traveled solo, flying from Milan to Dubai to Kathmandu. Spent few days in KTM before flying to Paro. Took the same route back. The Drukair flight from Kathmandu to Paro was simply fantastic, with its stunning Himalayan views and the warm hospitality of the crew.
I started planning my trip back in December, with the help of some past travelers and online forums. There are many rules and regulations when it comes to Bhutan, and visitors need to be mindful of them to ensure a smooth trip. The first and most important is the daily fee for sustainable tourism. I paid it online on the Bhutan e-Visa website, and got the visa approved and emailed to me within 5 days. The process was easier and quicker than expected, or maybe I was just lucky!
Then I had to arrange my tour with a tour operator who could help me with the itinerary and the local bookings. I started contacting a few of them, mentioning my particulars and describing the type of tour I was looking for.
In the end I chose one based on their quick response and reasonable pricing.
My first 2 days was in Thimphu, then moved to Punakha for 2 days there, before going to Phobjikha for 1 day. Finally came to Paro for 2 days before my return flight on the 8th day. I tried to make the most of my time in each of these places, and I think I was successful.
In Thimphu, the sheer scale and presence of the Buddha Dordenma left me spellbound. It reminded me of the Maitreya Buddha in Ladakh, but even grander. Punakha Dzong is one of the most striking monasteries I've seen anywhere, beautifully positioned between two rivers and still very much in use. Phobjikha valley felt like a complete contrast to the towns - open, quiet, and untouched - and hiking there was perhaps the most memorable part of the trip. Tiger's Nest was physically demanding but emotionally rewarding, and easily one of those places that lives up to its reputation.
I was fortunate enough to have the most amazing travel partners - my guide Sangay and driver Tshering. From the very beginning, they made me feel relaxed and genuinely welcome. Their sense of humor coupled with their deep knowledge of Bhutanese history & culture turned the trip into something far more than just a normal tour. They often took me to places not part of the original itinerary, which made the experience feel authentic and special. They were always available in the evening when I went out to eat. One afternoon we visited a local farmhouse, where I enjoyed a delicious, home-cooked meal. It was just amazing. On the last day Tshering invited me to have dinner with his family, which was incredibly touching and something I will always remember.
The hotels that were booked for me were comfortable, spacious and always had a balcony for city view or nature view. Food was very inexpensive, caffè was surprisingly good in Bhutan. I also had experiences like the hot stone bath in Paro, and a game of archery - Bhutan's national sport - arranged just for me.
Like any other country however, Bhutan is not immune to tourist traps. I found some souvenir shops near popular routes selling mass-produced items labeled as "traditional", often at inflated prices. If you're interested in handicrafts, you're better off going to small local shops or workshops where items are actually made. I visited one such place in Punakha and got a phallus statue (yes that's right!) at about 1/5 the price in Thimphu.
About money - Bhutan is still a cash economy. You have to bring sufficient notes from your country or in US$ and get it converted to local currency BTN at the Paro airport or in one of the exchange places in Paro and Thimphu. Make sure the bills are perfect. No ink marks, no tears, no folds. Otherwise they may be rejected. My tour agent helped me with this so I was able to have a stress-free trip.
Weather wise it was better than I thought. Clear days and cool nights. From Docula I could see Gangkhar Puensum, the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Bhutan has prohibited climbing activities above 6.000 m, so it looks like the record will stay for a while!
Almost everyone I met spoke fluent English. They also understood my accent. I learned some Bhutanese words before going, and they were super happy to hear them from a foreign tourist!
Overall I found Bhutan to be a very spiritual place, not in a forced or commercial way, but in how daily life, nature, and religion are closely interlinked. Without a doubt I will return someday. If you're considering traveling there - especially as a solo traveler - I cannot endorse it enough. It is safe and people go out of their way to help you.
Pic 1 - Phobjikha valley
Pic 2 - Tiger's Nest from basecamp
Pic 3 - Punakha Dzong
Pic 4 - Khamsum Yulley Chorten
Pic 5 - Wangdue Dzong
Pic 6 - Gangtey
Pic 7 - Buddha Dordenma