I had been to Kurdistan in Iraq in 2013 but travel in federal Iraq was restricted. In recent years that has changed completely. This was a trip from Baghdad to Erbil via Babylon, Karbala, Najaf, Nasiriyah and Mosul. Yes, Mosul was an ISIS city which was brutal, but having been liberated in 2017 it is in a construction boom although the old town still has parts in ruins (while churches and mosques are rebuilt). Baghdad - I stayed in Karada - had this incredible vibe where so much stays open until 5am - barbers, tea shops, cafes etc.
I'm a 43M and went with other male friends, one was Lebanese. Two of us then joined a 7 day tour as it's impossible to cover visits to Hatra, the marshes and Babylon without it. Iraq will be different for women.
I speak some Arabic so that helped read menus and talk to people - many times they didn't want to be paid for tea/waters/juice despite my friendly enthusiasm to pay! And despite what's happening in the region it felt secure. Lots of army, militia and police running checkpoints.
Money is sorted by exchanging USD 100 bills (gets rhe vest fx rate...5s-20s the worst) into Iraqi Dinar at a kiosk in town...not the airport...where you get a 30-40% higher rate. Don't use your cards...you'll pay the official FX rate which makes it more expensive.
The evisa takes a few hours to arrive. Then when you land you just get it pasted into your passport. My Lebanese friend didn't need a visa and other countries are visa free.
In Baghdad I took the local bus and taxi - so easy, no hassle.
I liked it so much I've booked five days in Baghdad in August (yes, hot as it gets, my plan is to remote work by day and explore from sunset).
It was a great experience and lots to go back for.