Were people pushy? Absolutely. Is it as bad as people here make it out to be? Not really.
The bakshish is deeply engrained in the local culture, but at the end of the day, we’re talking about literal cents. It happens constantly throughout the day, but it's just cents. If you’re a bit street smart, it’s really not that bad. No, that random guy on the street who somehow happens to be “the chef from your hotel” (even though you’re staying in an Airbnb) doesn’t want to show you his little "magic spice shop" (only open today - how lucky!) out of genuineness.
Arrival: It was very smooth. I got the VOA in advance, and at first, I didn't even believe my passport "stamp" was real - it was just a tiny thing scribbled in pencil and lost on a random page. Getting a SIM card was easy, and I might have gotten lucky, but the taxi-driver hassle was surprisingly low-key.
Cairo: I stayed downtown in a non-touristy area. Locals were quite friendly overall and Uber worked perfectly (minus the late afternoon traffic). It was really cheap: less than €5 for a 30+ minute ride.
Gizah: I booked a “free” walking tour where I ended up being the only one. It was great; the guide was friendly, knowledgeable, and even took some nice portraits. I didn’t encounter any hassle from charlatans on-site, which came a bit as a (good) surprise. The pyramids are definitely impressive and something to behold. However, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend paying the €30+ fee to go inside the Great Pyramid. I didn’t feel it was worth that price (and if you’re at all claustrophobic, just forget about it). Going inside the other one for less than 1/3 of the price might be good enough.
GEM: The Grand Egyptian Museum was really big and exhaustive. Definitely worth it, but try to go early (unlike me) because it gets very crowded, which can cloud the experience.
Transport: I took the Blue Bus night bus to Luxor (VIP seats for around €12). It was quite comfortable and we departed/arrived right on time.
Luxor: I stayed on the West Bank, which I’d recommend for a more local and peaceful vibe. I booked an Airnbn which turned out to be a 2-bedroom Airbnb with a nice view for only €14/night. There were enough eating options around even though Ramadan had just started. The East Bank is a 30-minute taxi or 10-minute ride+a ferry away, but since most sights are on the West Bank, I feel like it was a great choice.
Actually, the East Bank temples were what I liked the least - obivously impressive architecture, but very busy, chaotic, and the constant hassle there can get tiring. On the other hand, I absolutely loved Medinet Habu, the Ramesseum, and the Deir el-Medina tombs (the artisan ones). I actually even prefered those to the Valley of the Kings and Queens.
Overall, it was an enjoyable trip. There were some expected annoyances, but I definitely not experienced the Hell that is sometimes brought up here. I’d even gladly return to visit the south or other spots.
Pictures 1-3 : Gizah Pyramids
4-10 : Grand Egyptian Museum
11-20 : Luxor