Some places that I have stopped on or very close to the route of the Bernina Express in Switzerland.
There is so much to do along and around the route. And so easily accessible without a car. I have been around the route numerous times and very happily spent 2 weeks in a row based out of the midpoint at Samedan. You really can’t go wrong with the Engadin in general. From Samedan/St Moritz you have trains running down to Scuol in addition to the Bernina route. Loads of pretty villages and empty side valleys to explore. There are still various spots like the Glasspass and Viamala Gorge by Thusis that I have yet to check out.
Which makes it a bit sad that so many people just jam the Bernina Route in to tick the train off the list. Recently I’ve been seeing many itineraries try to force this into a single insane travel day from Milan to Lauterbrunnen or similar. If you only have 3 nights just pick one place.
The regional trains run once an hour in each direction so it is easy to hop on and off. Just note that some of the stations are “stop on request” so you need to press a button on the train or platform to get it to stop - but they are usually very well signed and clearly shown on the screen.
On the regional train crossing the Bernina Pass near the Diavolezza station. The older train wagons where every window can be lowered are getting phased out. The new ones do have a viewing section with little windows that can be opened to take reflection-free photos out of, which might be empty or might be rammed full of people with cameras.
Val Bever. The train passes through the lower part of the valley and announces it as being wild and romantic, but the wild romantic part is out of sight after the train has gone underground into the Albula tunnel. A short walk or bike ride gets you up into the more impressive part of the valley.
The train goes into the Albula tunnel but you can hike over the pass between the Spinas and Preda stations at each end of the tunnel (12km, +800m, -800m in either direction). The gorgeous Lai da Palpuegna which is just out of sight of the train line is one of the highlights along with a clear view of the whole of the Val Bever. I suggest ending in Preda has more frequent trains and a gentler ascent, but Spinas has the Gashaus Spinas.
Diavolzza. One of the most stunning view points in the country. Just going for the view from the cable car station is worth it, the reveal of the view as you reach the top of the ridge and are suddenly hit with towering peaks and glaciers everywhere is stunning. But you can carry on a bit higher up to Munt Pers which repays the (slightly breathless as you start at 3000m) effort with the view in the photo looking up the Morteratsch glacier.
Poschiavo. A lovely little village. The village itself won’t occupy you for long (you could easily explore it in an hour and be on the next train) but would make a good base for a few days hitting local spots like Lagh da Sasoseo by bus, or glacier garden and valley around the Cavaglia train stop. I stayed a night at the Albrici hotel which is one of the most gorgeous historic buildings that I have stayed in (or even visited). They are very proud of their local food including Pizzoccheri di Poschiavo, a buckwheat pasta.
Muottas Muragl. Take the funicular up from the train line at the Punt Muragl station for fantastic views up the valley and the start of various hikes. I always get the name mixed up with Minas Morgul.
Riding the open-air wagons in summer. It doesn’t get more panoramic than that. No special ticket or reservation required, just get on the last normal carriage with a 2nd class ticket, go through the rear door, and hope you find a seat. Check the rhb website or SBB timetable to see which trains include the wagons.
Walking down the valley from Preda to Bergün (7km, +110m, -520m). The valley with the old town of Bergün waiting at the end would be worth the walk by itself. But the train track winding and looping its way up really adds to the views. In winter you can sled down from the station, or if you are around on the first weekend of September then you can rent an E-bike and ride it car-free over the Albula pass on the slowUp.
Bergün/Bravuogn. A really gorgeous village. You get a nice view of the village sat in the valley from the train, but it doesn’t compare to actually walking the streets. The landscape around it is rather steep/rugged with limited transport options, so what you can do directly around it is a bit limited unless you are into fairly serious hiking.
Cows above Samedan. A quick mountain bike ride on MTB route 672 to enjoy the views and some trails down. Graubünden is very MTB friendly. In most cases the signed route is just the normal footpath - so be prepared for hikers and all types of path quality. There are endless options to just ride a gravel road up an almost empty side valley.
Walk across the top of the Bernina Pass from Alp Grüm to Morteratsch (14km +320, -500m, or make it shorter and flatter using the various stations in between). The top of the pass is surprisingly flat so it is very easy going with little change in height. You are almost constantly next/near to the tracks so get to watch the red trains glide back and forth.
Landwasser gorge. The viaduct is a symbol of the route and the Glacier Express (though honestly I wouldn’t put it it in my top moments on the ride). The Landwasser valley has more to offer (the local tourist board around Filisur is trying promote it as more than drive by so are making it more accessible). Cycling down through the gorge between the Davos Monstein and Davos Wiesen stations is a stunning route (roadies need to go underground through the road tunnel), and hikers can follow the gorge even closer.
Walking from Morteratsch station to the Morteratsch Glacier and back (6km, +/- 150m). It is a fairly gentle hike and is kept open in the winter as a groomed path for walking and crosscountry skiing (don’t stand in the tracks!). A number of signposts add some interesting/sad information by showing where the foot of the glacier was at various points in the last 200 years or so. Figure catching the train 3 hours later to give enough time to enjoy the views. Or for a longer and harder walk take the side path up to the Boval hut and back (10km, +/- 650m).