22 day trip report to Japan!

Hey all! The GF and I just came back our Japan trip 2 days ago. I'm still a jet lagged, bored, and wanting to share our trip! I haven't flown internationally since pre-covid and the previous trip I did was 18 days in Europe back in 2018. It is my GF's 3rd time in Japan and my 2nd time.

Our trip started out with 4 nights in Osaka, 4 nights in Hiroshima, 5 nights in Beppu, 5 nights in Kyoto, and 2 nights in Tokyo. We flew JAL business class from LAX to KIX (Osaka airport) and flew back Singapore Airlines business class from Narita (Chiba prefecture, about an hourish away from Tokyo) to LAX. Just to preface, my GF and I are very laid back, always enjoy the slow and late start of the morning, and prefer to hit 1 or 2 locations before calling it a day. I won't go into detail too much on food, because we know all the food and restaurants across Japan are amazing. Travel tips/advice are at the very end!

The bullets under each location are extra tidbits/advice

Osaka
KIX immigration took about an hour, even flying in after 6pm that night. We stayed at the Moxy Osaka Shin Umeda which was about $155/night. Great location with a great price and a pretty good hotel overall. It was only a 45 minute taxi ride from KIX. We visited Shinsekai, Tsutenakaku Tower, TeamLabs botanical garden, shopped at Grand Front Osaka, and visit the Osaka Pokemon Center.

There's a pretty high surcharge for uber taxis at night via the GO app. We weren't sure if it's because we are taking it from the airport or if it was a certain time at night. Online says after 9pm are usually uber taxi surcharges in general throughout Japan; however, but we booked it right at like 7:30pm and had that insane surcharge. It was like 100 bucks or something. So it was most likely a surcharge from being at the airport. We did not mind because we were tired from the flight and wanted to get to the hotel asap.

Hiroshima
We stayed at the Knot Hotel. It was a hotel in a great location, but a higher price/night but the room itself was pretty bad and I honestly wouldn't recommend it because of the room quality. The bed was small for 2 people, given the smallest 2 pillows ever, and the worst, was the ventilation. The thermostat wasn't accurate at all and it was gated at 22*C so it couldn't go any lower. We were so hot and sweating every night. The room was tiny, but this is normal across hotels in Japan and the bathroom was adequate. Their TV doesn't have access to any common streaming services except by HDMI hookup with your laptop, but at least their wifi was decent. I know I'm going on rant about this hotel, but it just was a terrible experience despite the reviews and high pricing at around $200/night.

Anyhow, we visited Peace Memorial Museum and walked around the park. Very beautiful, peaceful, yet somber. The biggest gripe about the museum was that it was jam packed at 11am on a weekday. We were shoulder to shoulder through most of the museum, it was hot and musky, and worst was that there were so many people coughing and sneezing. It was so bad that my GF and I truly picked up the flu (or covid, whichever) which made Beppu, our next location rough. We also went to Miyajima island. Very beautiful scenery with a lot of trinket shops, street food, but also a bit crowded. There was this long shopping strip/district near our hotel which we frequented for food and shopping.

There are 2 main ways to get to Miyajima. The expensive route, which was around 4500 yen each person had a ferry pick-up location right next to Peace Memorial park. We purchased them online through the World Heritage Route site (aqua net). Easy to use and easy to get on and off the boat. The boat ride isn't super scenic since your are inside (enclosed), but it's a smooth 45 minute ride too and from the island. The expensive route was just so much more convenient and was literally an 8 minute walk from our hotel. After doing so much walking in Miyajima, it was well worth to be back in the hotel so fast.
The cheaper route is where you take the train cars or taxis throughout the northwest part of Hiroshima (basically following the coast) until the other ferry pick-up location. The pricing is significantly cheaper; however, taking this entire route is about 2-3 hours total travel time one way.

Beppu
Unfortunately, our entire 5 nights at Beppu were rough because of that flu that we picked up while at Hiroshima. Coughing, sneezing, muscle aches, fevers, the normal. Yes, we masked up, and yes, we stayed indoors. My GF and I had plans to go to Harmony Land and check out the Beppu ropeway, but we were too sick to go out and we actually just spent the entire 5 nights in the resort. Fortunately, we had a 5 star resort experience staying at ANA Intercontinental Beppu. This was a big money spend for us to enjoy and envelop the "bougie" life and onsen experience. Beppu is known for their onsens (hot springs) and is essentially built on top of it.

The level of service at this resort was top tier. There was so much profound respect and service given to my GF and I, and we truly felt like we were billionaires here. We had breakfast included every morning and it was top tier: fish, eggs cooked to order, pastries, typical Japanese breakfast cuisine. We always ate on their balcony which overlooked the entirety of Beppu and it was just beautiful. Our room was so huge, had a jacuzzi/spa in our bathroom, and rain showerhead. Internet was great, enough for me to play some games, had a great TV to watch plenty of movies and shows. We did room service every night, because why not. Their room service is straight from their 5 star restaurants within the resort, so we had 5 star, cooked to order meals and not some jank burgers and nuggets you would get at an American hotel room service. The best part of course was their onsens. They had public onsens, gender specific, but we opted for paying for the private onsens several times ($200 for 2 hours). A bit pricey, but well worth it. The private onsens were a sight in itself. They were essentially a semi-open air hotel room on the corner of the resorts with these amazing views of Beppu and the shore, but with lush greenery, clean air, and was just an amazing onsen experience. The resort had multiple quiet and relaxing lounges and also had an infinity pool. So, while we did not explore Beppu at all outside of the resort because we were sick, those 5 days were fantastic to experience this bougie life and to heal and recover from the flu. It was THE perfect place to be sick because if we had been anywhere else, it would have been a miserable week.

ANA Intercontinental Resort and Spa is a MUST for any couples out there and I would highly recommend staying at least 4 or 5 nights. Travel time from Tokyo is Beppu is about 6 hours, but well worth the travel time. It is extremely affordable when you compare prices to America. It was roughly $600/night and for this level of service and this 5 stars, you would get NOTHING close to that in America for that price. If some haven't known already, the USD is very strong in Japan so everything is so affordable and honestly, just cheap. This is why we were getting room service every night. Not only that, there is no tipping culture in Japan (most of it at least) so you can ask and order for anything and you don't need to be shy or worried about tipping. I've never been to a Ritz Carlton hotel, but I've seen videos and honestly, I feel like this a Japanese version of a Ritz Carlton hotel but such a small fraction of the cost. The GF and I discussed that if we do come back to Japan, we are definitely going to ANA Intercontinental Resort again, that's for sure.
Harmony Land is closed and Thursdays several times per month for monthly service. This was one of the biggest reasons why we were going to Japan. But because of the unfortunate timing of getting sick while in Beppu, we pushed the date to a Weds or Thursday that week but we found out the hard way they were closed for that maintenance. So make sure you look on their website dates of closure. This also applies to Hello Kitty Land Tokyo.
specifically for travel to Beppu, for the Shinkansen you need to get off at Kogura station. You must buy the Limited Express Train at the counter/ticket stall at Kogura Station. You can also purchase it online at Navi time website like I did, but you still need go to the ticket stall to get your magnetic tickets, which dispenses 2 tickets per person. Do NOT lose those. You will use both to enter and exit the Limited Express Train going from Kogura Station to Beppu Station.

Kyoto
We stayed 5 nights at IHG Garner Hotel. It ended up being around $120/night It was a great location (8 minute walk from Gojo station) with a great price. We had a great hotel room because my GF booked the "accessible room." We later found out we had the biggest room in the hotel because we saw a picture of the room layouts. We had twin beds, one of them had a spring issue in the middle which was horrid on my back, but my GF slept on it just fine. Internet was great, we had a good TV, and because of the accessible status of the room, we had a huge bathroom. Overall, it was a decent room experience, mostly because the large size of the room was so nice. We visited Nintendo Museum, TeamLabs Biovortex, Pontocho and the shopping district in that area, and the Kamo River. Hikiniku to Come was a nice burger patty experience (exactly like we saw in Tiktok lol).

Nintendo Museum tickets are purchased online 3 months in advance, so plan and purchase early, but they're super cheap. My GF said it was like 10 bucks per ticket. FYI, there is a conveyor belt sushi spot just like an 8 minute walk from the museum that's affordable and worth checking out for great sushi.

Tokyo
This was our final stretch of 2 nights at Washington Hotel in Shinjuku which was about a 10 minute walk to Shinjuku station. This was the smallest hotel we've stayed at and the reviews were right, it's is very small, especially for two people. Internet was good, TV was small, put had plenty of streaming apps on it, and honestly the best part about the room was that the bed. Despite the room being tiny as hell and the bed small for 2 people, it was really comfy and it had really nice head pillows. The hotel overall was great for the price and location coming it at $135/night. A huge plus is that there is an Airport Limousine bus that takes you to Haneda or Narita airport. Both my GF and I slept really good our last two nights, especially recovering from the final stretch of our flu. The hotel has a Family Mart (the popular kobini, aka convenience store) inside of it on the 1st floor with tons of restaurants as well as a fancy restaurant with a great view at the top, 25th floor. This stay was our cool down period before flying back home so we actually didn't do much other than eat and shop around Shinjuku station area. Our biggest stop was Don Quixote where we bought a luggage to bring back all our purchases and we also went to Lumine EST. We got to experience Kobe beef teppanyaki. While it was a fun experience and the beef was so juicy, and tender, I personally don't think teppanyaki is worth the price. It's good for a one time experience, but your money is better spent buying the kobe beef at a non-teppanyaki spot. This restaurant was our biggest spend on food. It ended up being like $350 for 2 people for the cheapest kobe beef (220g/person). Our chef was fun, but I did find it odd that they do tipping here. Don't get me wrong, for the experience and his character, I was totally fine with tipping, but they way he presented tipping felt off and you feel more pressured to tip.

We knew that Tokyo was going to be packed, but we didn't know it was going to be THAT packed. It was just too much so we really didn't do much at all in Tokyo. So be prepared to be overstimulated.
If you are looking to do shopping at Don Quixote, do NOT go to the Shinjuku location. It was SO packed in such a small store that there were lines going up and down the stairs and elevators. You had to wait a bit to get into any hallway. It was so bad. Shop at any other Don Q locations, just not at Shinjuku.

Extra tips and advice

If you are staying in Tokyo whether it's at the start or end of your trip, look into hotels that have access or close access to the Airport Limousine bus. It is probably the best way to travel to and from the Narita airport and it is very affordable, but you must purchase your tickets online. I know Haneda is a lot closer to Tokyo than Narita, but the Limousine bus also has pick up and drop off to and from Haneda. It is very affordable too. It was around $25 each from our Shinjuku hotel to Narita. It was a 2 hour ride because the bus is picking up other people, but the actual travel time on the road is about an 1hr and 15 min.
Shopping: I picked up 2 great pairs of walking shoes from Mizuno store. I went to Jins for 2 pairs of new glasses. You do your eye exam in store for about $45 or so and glasses are made within an hour; however, if you add extras like I did which were anti glare and scratching, it will takes a couple days and cost extra but they will ship to any hotel for you. FYI, there are some Jins locations in the US which I will for sure visit in the future if I need more glasses. I got a nice, fancy watch at Knot (Maker's Watches Knot), super customizable with dozens to choose from and it is like Seiko quality watches and you get it all same day and all at affordable prices. Unless you are truly on a hard travel budget, don't be too concerned with buying stuff at particular cities for cheaper prices. At least for us, the slight fluctuation (like 100-200 yen) from to store was miniscule and 9 times out of 10, it was worth avoiding the busiest areas. Nearly everything is Japan is super affordable.
For anyone curious about pricing, my shoes were about $60 each, my 2 glasses with the eye exam were about $200 total, and my watch was around $350. My GF bought a Goyard purse and wallet which ended up being around $600 cheaper. Most restaurants well be around 700-1500 per person Drinks from the vending machine range from 110 yen to 200 yen (less than 2 bucks). Convenience store items are well within than range of items too each.
Uber eats works great, so don't be afraid to use it and meet your driver in the lobby or outside of the hotel, but make sure you tip! The biggest downside is that most restaurants on the app are in Japanese so you will need another device to translate, but if you are doing super late night Coco curry runs like we did, you'll love it!
Googlemaps is also a great way to check reviews of all locations. There are SO many food shops that you can honestly to go any and you will be satisfied, it doesn't have to be a popular on tiktok
If you used Tiktok to plan much of your shopping, food, and everything, make sure you look up those locations to see if tickets or reservations are needed to be obtained early. Popular tourist spots need early reservations or tickets. Examples are Nintendo Museum which is a 3 month opening for tickets. Hikiniku to Come restaurant in Kyoto does reservations 1 month in advance and they fill up quick. Certain Sanrio shopping locations either do online reservations or do like 6 am line-up for later-in-the-day ticket reservations (very annoying, but that's how they control the crowd).

Travel tips

smartEX app is your go to for shikansen tickets. Easy to use and you can set the tickets to your IC/suica card. I think it was always worth spending the extra for green car (first class) which is usually around 5000 yen extra for a comfier, reserved seat, quiet, and way less crowded train. If you happen to miss your train, you can take any other train after yours within 24 hours but you will need to stay in the unreserved car area. And yes, they do check your tickets if you are in any reserved sections. They actually don't check your ticket, but you will see a worker pass through doing check offs on their paper/tablet and greet you with a wet wipe.
Mentioned already, but the GO app is a great way to use uber taxis to get anywhere.
Apple has suica card that you can add to the phone, but Androids do not so you will have to get an IC card from any station. You can also get a refund from your IC card for the remaining balance at those stations but with a small fee. When you tap you card at the ticket counter gateway, at the very end their a small screen with a number. This number shows your remaining balance on the card (you can also check the balance at the recharge ticket counters)
Googlemaps is near perfect to help you navigate the entire train system. This includes timing, names of trains, and even train cars numbering to help you get off/exit faster, so trust it!
Look into some sort of credit card points for business class travel! Flying business class to and from Japan made the start and end of the trip so much more relaxing. After experiencing JAL, I would definitely recommend avoiding JAL business class on their 777-300ER. It is their oldest model and it's just old. We had a great experience, food was great, service was great, it was comfy. But, after experiencing Singapore Airlines business class, JAL is definitely not worth it. We hope to try business class for ANA instead or SQ again. I hear the newest plan for JAL is fantastic though, but very expensive.

Final Thoughts
We very much enjoyed our 22 day trip. Honestly, catching the flu was the worst part of the trip. It really brought us down mentally and physically from when we got sick until we left, especially those 5 days in Beppu. Though, as I said already, being in Beppu during the worst of the flu was the best location because it allowed us to relax and recover. Even now, it still blows me away how so cheap and affordable everything is in Japan. I highly recommend just going "all out" on your spending. Don't be shy to spend an extra 5000 yen for first class seats on the Shinkansen. Japan can be a very tiresome trip with all the walking and stair climbing, but because of the affordability, don't shy away from paying extra for closer hotels or just a nicer hotel. I will say I did get homesick about a week before we got home. For me, I think a 2 week getaway is the perfect cutoff, maybe an extra few days. 3 weeks is too long honestly. I mentioned a bit of this already in the travel tips, but you all HAVE to try business class seats. We will NEVER fly international again unless it's business class. Those that say it's just a waste of money because you're just going to sleep have no idea. It's precisely that and the comfort business class provides that makes it worth it. Starting and ending a long vacation, especially a long flight is so much more manageable and comfortable on the body and mind when you have a comfortable place to rest in the business class.

Author: Nausica1337